Reviews

Henry Scott’s townhouse restaurant has the poise and understated elegance of the city itself. Its gently worn tables, soothing palette and hidden herb garden are an appealing backdrop to this West Country chef’s thoughtful, precise brand of modern British cooking. His concise menu is understated, with just three choices per course – there’s also a four-course ‘taste’ (including a vegetarian option) where you let the chef decide what you’re eating – and all evidence suggests the kitchen is growing in confidence. Expect interesting flavours and exciting textures but nothing too ‘way out’. Welsh longhorn ravioli with BBQ leeks and tomato, followed by a refreshingly straightforward sea bream fillet with celeriac risotto, radish and langoustine dressing have been uncomplicated successes. Vegetarians miss out not a jot: rosemary maize cake with cucumber, dill and rhubarb salad or tempura broccoli with avocado, onion compote and soy dressing deserve their place on the carte. No order is complete without the luscious, liqueous dark chocolate tart. Local beers, cider, kombucha and cocktails complement the short, smart wine list.

The simplicity of its name is reflective of this laid-back bistro as a whole. It sits on a pretty pedestrianised lane and has a straightforward yet appealing interior, plus a lovely enclosed terrace to the rear. Chef-Owner Henry runs his restaurant with passion and pride, serving bright, modern dishes that change with the seasons. The lunch menu offers good value for money, while the tasting menus – including a vegetarian version – showcase the full range of Henry's talents.